
Plant Propagation
By Jeff Stiller - Colgate, Wisconsin Which came first, the seed or the plant? In order to understand each individual aspect, we must have knowledge pertaining to the whole life cycle of the plant. Let's start from the ground on up. The first thing we must consider is where to grow our plants. With lily bulbs we must meet minimum requirements to establish growth. Those being soil, water, and light. If we take time to carefully consider each of those requirements and act on them, then we can maximize the results. The soil is the bulb's home. It needs light pliable soil to grow and spread it's roots. The soil should allow air to penetrate and water to drain. Micro organisms must move freely through the soil to do their work. Compact soils restrict growth and reduce life expectancy. Compact soils may dam water around a bulb and cause it to drown. Nutriments may never reach the ever hungry roots. Disease may spread more rapidly and inhibit the plant growth. Amendments should be added to condition your soil. Even soils that are still good need to be replenished from time to time. Where I live there is compacted loam. To this, I've added mined peat moss, fine silt from the swamp, course sand, straw, and chopped organic matter. The chopped organic matter consisted of branches, bark, pine needles, sawdust, and leaves. It is a mixture of sizes and composition so that it will decompose at different rates. This is a constant supply of micro nutrients. I occasionally add a high nitrogen fertilizer like 21-10-10, to make up for nitrogen loss during decomposition. Otherwise I use a 10-10-10 fertilizer at regular intervals. A 50 pound bag can be purchased at local feed mills for about $7.00 As amendments break down, I hoe them in and add more. This also aids in the weeding process. The soil is looser so weeds can't hold on so tight, or break off. Soil pH may also be considered.Some organic matter may change soil pH. Pine needles acidify, while lime sweetens the soil. Orientals are on the acid side, while asiatics like a little more lime. Some species like the caucasions will not grow in acid type soil at all. Our second consideration should be water. Bulbs by themselves are actually storage containers. They store enough moisture and food to keep themselves alive during severe periods and through dormancy. Growth for the current year is actually the result of the previous years vitality. In spring as temperatures rise, new roots and stems begin to develop. Rain, ground moisture, and dew supply the plant. Excess moisture is the plants biggest enemy. Bulbs will drown in standing water. Soils that don't provide good drainage need to be altered. Raised beds or adding porous soil amendments help. Moisture or dew that adheres to stems and leaves can also be detrimental. Droplets of water on leaves act like magnifying glasses. When the sun shines on each droplet it burns a round spot and destroys leaf tissue. This weakened area is now more susceptible to a fungal disease called botrytis. Once established, it spreads quickly throughout the garden. To help avoid this problem, space plants apart, where breezes can have a drying affect. Morning sun will also help. Dispose of previous years growth, this harbors disease organisms and insect larva. Our last basic need is light. This is what starts the photosynthesis process. Lilies are sun lovers, some do tolerate more shade than others. In the species groups we see that the wider leaf varieties will grow in more shade. This is because they have more surface area to collect the suns rays. Thus they can convert that to more growth energy. In some instances, too much sun has the tendency to fade flower colors. Pink and white are the most noticable. With the development of polyploid lilies these colors are much more stable. I do grow some lilies under the filtered light of locust trees. Plants receive morning and afternoon direct sun, but avoid mid-day sun. These are my pink lilies, Martagons in a woodland setting, and orientals in pots. Those in pots don't fade but it keeps them from overheating or cooking the bulbs. Reflected light is also a consideration. When the sun's rays bounce off an object, their energy is converted to heat. You can notice plants too close to a wall appear to be reaching to the sun. Actually they are trying to avoid too much heat. Soil, water, and light. Take these into consideration, and you'll be on your way to growing better lilies! Top

Plant Propagation

By Jeff Stiller - Colgate, Wisconsin

Which came first, the seed or the plant? In order to understand each individual aspect, we must have knowledge pertaining to the whole life cycle of the plant. Let's start from the ground on up.

The first thing we must consider is where to grow our plants. With lily bulbs we must meet minimum requirements to establish growth. Those being soil, water, and light. If we take time to carefully consider each of those requirements and act on them, then we can maximize the results.

The soil is the bulb's home. It needs light pliable soil to grow and spread it's roots. The soil should allow air to penetrate and water to drain. Micro organisms must move freely through the soil to do their work. Compact soils restrict growth and reduce life expectancy. Compact soils may dam water around a bulb and cause it to drown. Nutriments may never reach the ever hungry roots. Disease may spread more rapidly and inhibit the plant growth.

Amendments should be added to condition your soil. Even soils that are still good need to be replenished from time to time. Where I live there is compacted loam. To this, I've added mined peat moss, fine silt from the swamp, course sand, straw, and chopped organic matter.

The chopped organic matter consisted of branches, bark, pine needles, sawdust, and leaves. It is a mixture of sizes and composition so that it will decompose at different rates. This is a constant supply of micro nutrients. I occasionally add a high nitrogen fertilizer like 21-10-10, to make up for nitrogen loss during decomposition. Otherwise I use a 10-10-10 fertilizer at regular intervals. A 50 pound bag can be purchased at local feed mills for about $7.00 As amendments break down, I hoe them in and add more. This also aids in the weeding process. The soil is looser so weeds can't hold on so tight, or break off.

Soil pH may also be considered.Some organic matter may change soil pH. Pine needles acidify, while lime sweetens the soil. Orientals are on the acid side, while asiatics like a little more lime. Some species like the caucasions will not grow in acid type soil at all.

Our second consideration should be water. Bulbs by themselves are actually storage containers. They store enough moisture and food to keep themselves alive during severe periods and through dormancy. Growth for the current year is actually the result of the previous years vitality. In spring as temperatures rise, new roots and stems begin to develop. Rain, ground moisture, and dew supply the plant. Excess moisture is the plants biggest enemy. Bulbs will drown in standing water. Soils that don't provide good drainage need to be altered. Raised beds or adding porous soil amendments help. Moisture or dew that adheres to stems and leaves can also be detrimental. Droplets of water on leaves act like magnifying glasses. When the sun shines on each droplet it burns a round spot and destroys leaf tissue. This weakened area is now more susceptible to a fungal disease called botrytis. Once established, it spreads quickly throughout the garden. To help avoid this problem, space plants apart, where breezes can have a drying affect. Morning sun will also help. Dispose of previous years growth, this harbors disease organisms and insect larva.

Our last basic need is light. This is what starts the photosynthesis process. Lilies are sun lovers, some do tolerate more shade than others. In the species groups we see that the wider leaf varieties will grow in more shade. This is because they have more surface area to collect the suns rays. Thus they can convert that to more growth energy. In some instances, too much sun has the tendency to fade flower colors. Pink and white are the most noticable. With the development of polyploid lilies these colors are much more stable. I do grow some lilies under the filtered light of locust trees. Plants receive morning and afternoon direct sun, but avoid mid-day sun. These are my pink lilies, Martagons in a woodland setting, and orientals in pots. Those in pots don't fade but it keeps them from overheating or cooking the bulbs.

Reflected light is also a consideration. When the sun's rays bounce off an object, their energy is converted to heat. You can notice plants too close to a wall appear to be reaching to the sun. Actually they are trying to avoid too much heat.

Soil, water, and light. Take these into consideration, and you'll be on your way to growing better lilies!

[ Top ] Top