Growing Lilies from Seed Epigeal, Quick and Easy

By Hod Hoepner

Raising lilies from bulbs is enjoyable and a great hobby! This article's purpose is to encourage you to take the next step and give it a try. The next step beyond growing lilies from bulbs and for even more pleasure is growing them from seed. My own method is altered to fit my own specifications, but lily growers can use LET'S GROW LILIES with good results.

I use the quick germinating-type seed, also known as "epigeal" seed. Under normal conditions, the epigeal-type seed is most commonly used and raised in gardens today. The Asiatic and Aurelian lilies fall into this group.

Lily seed can be obtained through the NALS Seed Exchange, seed catalogs, friends, or best of all, products of your own efforts made by hybridizing. You may use seed from crosses made by yourself, or from pods that are self-and open-pollinated. It all begins with choosing pods that are nicely formed, plump and enlarged. It is recommended that you use seed whose embryos are reflected when held up to the light. Lily seeds may be kept in the freezer if not used in a short period of time.

Soil or planting materials can vary. It is recommended to use sterile weed free materials. Fine sphagnum or peat moss mixed with vermiculite works fine. There are ready prepared mixes that work well also. The important element is that the soil mixture holds moisture, which has to be controlled after the seeds germinate so as not be too wet. The soil mix should not dry out completely before germination.

Containers can be of different sizes. For just a few seeds of one cross, a small can or plastic container works well. Three to five inch tall containers are used, fill soil to within 1/2 inch from the top of the container. I use flats about 4 inches deep by 12 inches x 18 inches. I prefer to mix my soil together before planting seeds. Good rainwater, melted snow, or tap water is gradually added until the soil mix is semi-moist, light, loose, and fluffy. The soil is leveled off and pressed down gently.

Remember that your containers must have adequate amounts of drainage holes-good drainage is a necessity for successful lily growing.

The soil is placed in the container with seed placed about inch apart. About 1/4 inch soil mix is spread over the seeds and pressed down before watering. Be sure at this point to label; if it is a controlled cross and write the name of the mother or pod parent first, then the pollen parent; e.g., 'On Wisconsin' x 'Sweet Lorraine'. Also include the date planted. If room on the marker, give information such as 1a, spotless, or other special attributes. I use Venetian blinds for markers, cut 6-7 inches long and write with a waterproof pen, crayon, grease or China marker. I prefer to use a Listo marker.

After the seeds are prepared and labeled, the entire container is gently watered thoroughly, covered with plastic and placed in a dark area at about 70 degrees F for about 10-14 days or until germination occurs. Then bring containers out to the light. Small groups can be placed by windows or on a sun porch. Florescent lights can be used or grow lamps placed about six inches to one foot above germinating seeds, lighting 11-13 hours per day. Keep moist until fully germinated. A diluted fertilizer and water combination can be applied at this time if soil is not too wet. Diluted water of ?????? - strength of 20-20-20 can be applied about every 2-3 weeks. Do not over water from this stage of growth as dampening off may occur.

When lily seeds germinate, the first aboveground stem is known as the cotyledon. The growth looks very much like a blade of grass. The cotyledon may also bring up the seed with its growth. After growth begins a true leaf will develop near the base of the first growth. The small seedlings will continue to send up more true leaves as growth progresses. Some lilies are more vigorous than others are, so growth can vary somewhat. When a good root system is established, the seedlings can be gently pulled apart and planted about 3-6 inches apart in raised beds or larger flats for more growth. A different soil can be used at this point. Soiled blended with good amounts of humus along with peat moss, perlite or vermiculite, and coarse sand makes a good combination. The fertilizer can be a bit stronger. Be sure to transplant on a cool cloudy day. The seedlings should have been hardened off for a week or two to adjust to sun and heat. Seeds planted before January and given proper care have been know to bloom the first year. The following year most seedlings should give a flower or two.

The real joy and excitement in raising lilies comes when the first blooms appear! You are in for some real surprises! Must of what your seedlings produce are controlled by you through selection of the seed and pollen parents. Through time and experience, many unusual and unique lilies will appear. Cross breeding of lilies is a skill, but much of it is luck. Imagination, foresight, and goal setting are essential in choosing parents for your lilies. Above all, credit must be given to our Creator, who has control over what we would like to accomplish.

As my seedlings come into flower and the unusual ones are noted, I select and remove the plants to a testing site for further observation. The new seedlings are evaluated for about three years. Vigor, disease resistance, self-propagation, flower form, color and placement, and other favorable qualities along with the negative influences must be considered if you want to continue to grow this particular seedling. If it meets all your desire, propagation of the seedling is the next step. You may want to have your seedling registered.

I sincerely hope we have more people who are interested in trying their skill at raising lilies from epigeal seed. Have fun!

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